SEGMENT 8 Having left Broome behind, we stopped at the Boab Prison Tree (pic01) near Derby, where Aborigines were kept by the white settlers for various questionable crimes. Then we headed for the Gibb River Road, famous for its isolation and stunning gorges and waterfalls. Due to an unusually long and stormy Wet season, however, parts of this unpaved track were still flooded and except for a small portion, the road was closed to all traffic. The waterfalls carried more water than usual and were exceptionally spectacular but we couldn't get to them! We drove into the Gibb River Road as far as we were allowed and experienced a thunderous downpour accompanied by an incredible sunset (pic02). In no time, the henceforth dry trail turned into slippery slush and we understood why most roads are closed when wet. We explored lovely Windjana Gorge (pic03), part of the ancient Devonian Reef which once stood here. When the oceans subsided, erosion started and rivers cut breathtaking gorges into this limestone. We started our walk through the gorge very early in the day and although it was overcast, the air in the rainforest was muggy and thick. The river flows only in the Wet; during the Dry, it is reduced to separate pools which are home to fascinating creatures like the Archer Fish, which shoots insects from the air with a spout of water, and freshwater crocodiles. These grow to about 10 feet (3 meters) and are usually harmless, unlike their quite dangerous saltwater cousins which can get up to 25 feet (8 meters) long! We had been advised to stay away from murky water holes and heed all warning signs and didn't intend to take a dip anytime soon. Back on the highway, we noticed the "no speed limit" signs (pic04). We visited Geiki Gorge with its magnificent rock colors and pushed on to Purnululu National Park or better known as the Bungle Bungles. These rock formations offer great hiking through fantastic gorges. We also enjoyed a helicopter flight just before sunset to see the rock mounts shaped like beehives and canyons from the air (pic04). This park is an absolute must for any visitor to the area who is equipped with a 4WD vehicle! Sunday, May 7. We pushed on
south along the Tanami Desert Track, a 1250 miles (2000km) dirt road through
the Outback. Once a service road for the local mines, it is now driven
by quite a few tourists who want to experience the Outback away from the
crowds. A quick detour took us to Wolfe Creek Meteor Crater. Through seemingly
endless bushland we continued along the rather well maintained dirt track
until we reached Rabbit Flat Roadhouse, one of the most remote roadhouses
in Australia. The owners have been living in this isolation for over 30
years and have plenty of stories to share with those who stop for fuel
or food. On Tuesday morning, we reached Alice Springs, an outpost of civilization
in the middle of the Red Centre, which offered a surprising area of services.
After stocking up and updating our website, we moved on into the desert.
The West MacDonnell Ranges feature many scenic spots with lovely gaps
in the red rock walls and the occasional waterhole, though the water temperatures
discourage any swimming. Along the Mereenie Loop, a heavily corrugated
dirt track through Aboriginal Land, we reached Kings Canyon (pic05) where
we climbed to the ridge of the gorge and hiked along the rim - a truly
marvelous experience! Finally, we reached Uluru (Ayers Rock), the iconic
monolith that everybody associates with Australia. The area around the
rock and Kata Tjurta ("The Olgas") is protected in a National
Park and the only services available are found in the nearby Yulara resort,
very touristy and equally expensive. We found some solitude on our 5.8
miles (9.4km) walk around the base of Uluru which surprises with its many
crevices and dimples (pic06). Because of strong winds, the climb to the
top was closed both days. As Aboriginal landowners, for whom the rock
is sacred, prefer visitors do not climb the rock, we hadn't planned this
strenuous hike anyway. Not to be missed is a sunset when the rock turns
blood red in the disappearing light. In the campground we met a young
couple from Germany who were touring Australia on bicycles. |
pic01 |