On the longest straight road in Australia through the feared Nullarbor Plains, we met Mike and Anna, a couple from Sydney who were in the process of moving to Perth. Mike is an endurance bicyclist and was attempting to ride his bike from Sydney all the way to the west coast - quite a feat considering that he was covering a distance of over 2,500 miles!
Glad that we had motorized transportation, we pushed on to the south coast of Western Australia where we stopped in Esperance. Many Australians we had met on the way had recommended the area around this town and fabulous Cape Le Grand National Park for its breathtaking coast. We found a magnificent beach which we had all to ourselves for two days; our camping spot was spectacular. Moving along the coastline we stopped several times to enjoy the cliffs and secluded bays. At Dunbury we grabbed the opportunity to dive the HMAS Swan, a large decommissioned destroyer which had been sunk purposely in 1997 for scuba divers to explore. Supposedly, this is one of the most exciting wreck dives in the southern hemisphere and we certainly enjoyed the thrill.

Upon reaching Perth we hooked up with the local Jeep owners' club for a trail run. When we called Geoff, who had invited us through an online board, to let him know we'd made it to the city, he replied: "I know, someone on the board spotted you yesterday and posted it!" No hiding with our vehicle! The surroundings of Perth are fairly flat, the local four-wheelers apologized, and the Mundaring Powerline Track is pretty much the only significant change in elevation. Because of low precipitation, the trail, which usually features some mud, was very dry and offered a few rocky challenges and steep climbs on loose sand. We enjoyed the company of like-minded off-roaders for a change. Before leaving town, we paid a visit to Mike and Anna and helped them assemble some of their new IKEA furniture.
As we pushed on north we explored the coastline thoroughly, enjoying countless breathtaking sunsets and quiet campsites, and continued on a remote dirt track to the westernmost point of Australia, Steep Point. We followed the corrugated sand track and climbed over huge dunes to reach the cliffs that drop about one hundred feet to the crashing waves below. The beaches along the way were spectacular with crystal clear waters rich in fish life.

When we reached the northern coast, we were surprised with swimming holes and waterfalls in an otherwise bone-dry desert environment due to the late wet season. Mike, a local four-wheeler, had offered to show us around Burrup Peninsula and we enjoyed some hidden treasures usually not easily accessible to tourists. Further on the heavy rains came to our disadvantage when many dirt roads were closed because of severe washouts and deep mud. Unfortunately, the Gibb River Road, a remote track which had been on our agenda for its spectacular scenery and waterfalls, was still impassable. We were only able to travel a short distance to Windjana Gorge and, after a sudden downpour, got a good understanding of the slippery mess which heavy rain creates on the sandy tracks. To make good use of the waiting time for roads to reopen, we journeyed south along the Tanami Track through lonely desert plains baking in the sun. This roughly 400 mile long dirt road runs right into the Red Center, the heart of the Outback, although we experienced the desert fairly green. Even here the summer had been unusually wet.
In the company of hundreds of pesky bushflies, the staple of all desert outdoor activities, we walked the six miles around famous Uluru, better known as Ayers Rock, the huge monolith which abruptly rises from the otherwise featureless plains, and hiked through the Olgas, nearby rock formations. After a few days in the cool winter desert with freezing nights we pushed up to the tropical north and Darwin where warm temperatures with high humidity greated us - quite a change that took a while to adapt to. We visited Litchfield and Kakadu National Parks where countless rivers, waterfalls and flooded mangrove areas dominate the landscape. These parks are famous for the ancient Aboriginal rock art, scenic beauty and exotic wildlife. We were excited to spot quite a few saltwater crocodiles which populate the area and enjoy a protected status. Along the entire northern coast, warning signs alert the unsuspecting tourist of severe dangers in the waters: various types of deadly jellyfish and aggressive salties. We were glad that we could seek refreshment in some of the safe rock pools in these parks - none of these creatures are known for their climbing skills!

It was time for us to start heading towards the Pacific. We hopped on another remote dirt track, the Savannah Way, which connects the east with the west coast and runs along the top edge of the Outback. This connector once played a major role for pioneers and prospectors and is full of history. We faced deep river crossings and severe ruts and washouts along the way but made good progress on the five-day journey. Upon reaching the east coast, we had traveled thousands of miles on some of the most demanding roads in Australia and so we arranged with ProComp Tires for another set of XTerrains.
After all this time in the wilderness, we enjoyed the nightlife in Cairns, a city bustling with tourists here to visit the Great Barrier Reef, and stocked up for one of the last great adventures Down Under, Cape York. Read a more detailed report on the trip to the northernmost point of the Australian continent in the next issue.